A CONVERSATION WITH… PAT CROCKER

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Candied Citrus Peel
Simmering citrus peel in a simple syrup made from granulated sugar and water is one of the oldest forms of preserving the unique fragrance and taste of citrons, oranges and lemons. This method may be used for any thick-rind citrus fruit or for fresh ginger but oranges are the best for eating as a candy or dipping in chocolate.
Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)
2 Navel oranges
1-1/4 cups (300 mL) granulated sugar
1-1/4 cups (300 mL) water
about ¼ cup (50 mL) extra granulated sugar for coating
Cut the peel into strips that are roughly 1/4-inch by 2-inches .
3. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly to dissolve the sugar. Add drained peel strips, reduce heat and simmer gently for 1 hour. Stir the strips once to distribute them evenly in the sugar water but after that, leave them to simmer without stirring. Check on the pan occasionally to make sure that the syrup is simmering gently and not scorching. A heavy bottomed pan is essential. After 1 hour, check on the pan every few moments. The water should be almost evaporated and the strips should be translucent and soft but not mushy.
4. Meanwhile, prepare parchment or waxed paper by sprinkling it with 3 tablespoons (45 mL) granulated sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and using tongs, transfer the candied strips from the syrup to the sugared paper. Toss well to coat the strips and sprinkle with more sugar if needed to evenly coat them. Use a fork to separate the strips. Let cool and dry overnight on the paper over a wire rack. Store in an airtight container in a cool place for 1 week or pack into freezer containers, seal, label and store for up to 9 months.
Use: Dip the candied peel in chocolate and use as a sweet confection; use to decorate cakes, muffins or chop and add to the batter of baked goods. I have used them as swizzle sticks for cocktails and they are especially nice with rich chocolate mousse or brownies.
Scarlet Mango Chutney
While this chutney is piquant enough to stand up to the spiciest of dishes, it is not the color one would expect: it is flaming red. I love the beet/mango combination and the cider vinegar, candied ginger, turmeric and pickling spice combine to transport one back to Bombay and turn of the century England, with its curries and chutneys.
I challenge you to try this scarlet version before going back to the traditional, glowing orange mixture, but if you really must have yellow chutney, simply substitute grated butternut or acorn squash for the beets.
Makes 8+ cups (2+ L)
1 cup (250 mL) raisins
½ cup (125 mL) freshly squeezed lime juice
1-1/4 cups (300 mL) apple cider vinegar
¼ cup (50 mL) apple juice
¾ cup (175 mL) packed brown sugar
2 tbsp (25 mL) Classic Pickling Spice Blend (page xx) or commercial pickling spice, wrapped in cheesecloth
1 tbsp (15 mL) ground turmeric
1 tbsp (15 mL) pickling salt
4 cups (1 L) shredded beets
2 cups (500 mL) chopped onions
½ cup (125 mL) chopped candied gingerroot
2. Heat 5 1-pint (500 mL) jars in boiling water and scald the lids, lifter, funnel and tongs.
3. In a Maslin pan or canning kettle, combine vinegar, apple juice and brown sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Add turmeric and salt. Stir well and hang the pickling spice bag so that it is immersed in the boiling mixture. Add mango mixture, beets, onions and gingerroot. Stir and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring occasionally for 30 to 45 minutes, or until vegetables are soft.
4. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (0.5 cm) headspace. Remove air bubbles and add more hot chutney if necessary, to leave a 1/4-inch (0.5 cm) headspace. Wipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot water bath, topping up with hot water if necessary. Bring to a full rolling boil and process jars for 10 minutes.
5. Remove canner lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars to a towel or rack to cool completely. Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up to 1 year
Use: The beets in this chutney make it more savory than traditional mango chutney, so it may be liberally used with grilled and roasted meats and hearty winter casseroles and stir-fried dishes.
Just because the harvest season for locally grown fruits and vegetables is waning is no reason not to keep on canning and freezing what is on hand.
In fact, following the seasons and “putting down” the bounty of local produce can be a year-round activity for anyone who has decided to catch the trend and make it their own, says Pat Crocker, home economist, herbalist and an award-winning author of eight cookbooks.
Her latest endeavour is Preserving: The Canning And Freezing Guide For All Seasons (HarperCollins, $29.95).
“What if you froze a lot of last summer’s strawberry harvest and want to make it into jam for Christmas gifts?” she asks. Well, it is really a no-brainer and it frees up the freezer for other items.
Most of all, Crocker wants to catch the wave of newly minted fans of getting back to basics, especially those who are interested in preserving foods for year-round consumption.
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Thanks Judy, as a long time food journalist, you know what Canadians want and need. I appreciate your comments on Preserving.
–Pat